Friday, January 17, 2014

Knitting Pattern #4: Convertible Thrummed Mittens

A conversation with my mother-in-law today reminded me that I should publish this pattern, so here it is!  I designed this pattern because my sister is hard to please...she wanted a pair of thrummed mittens for Christmas, but she wanted convertible mittens.  And to make things even more complicated, she wanted half-fingers inside the mittens, rather than just a cuff.  I searched high and low for a pattern, but couldn't find anything close, so I decided to create one myself!


This pattern has not been test-knit, so please let me know if you find any errors!

Now available on Ravelry!

Size: Women’s Medium

Yarn: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted (2 skeins)
Ashland Bay Merino roving (1 oz)

#4 Double Point needles
Gauge: 5.5-6 sts = 1”

Pattern notes:
  • k=knit
  • co=cast on
  • bo=bind off
  • pu=pick up stitch
  • k2tog=knit 2 stitches together
  • sl=slip a stitch
  • psso=pass the slipped stitch over the last worked stitch
  • 2x2 rib=*knit 2, purl 2*


Cuff
Cast on 40 sts
Join in the round
Work 2x2 rib for 2.75”

Knit 4 rows
Thrum row (*k3, thrum1*)

To work a thrum: Insert the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch to be worked (on the left needle).  Fold a small piece of roving in half, and place the fold over the right needle.  Pull the roving through to the front of the piece (using the right needle), and leave the roving on the right needle.  Using yarn, knit the next available stitch on the left needle (this is the stitch right above the one with the roving pulled through it).  Pass the roving over the last worked stitch and pull snug.

Thrums as viewed from the inside of the mitten top.

Thrum pattern: Throughout the entire piece (other than the ribbed sections and the half-fingers), use the following pattern:  *knit 4 rows, work thrum row (*k3, thrum1*), knit 4 rows, work alternating thrum row (k1, thrum1, *k3, thrum1*, k2)*.

Start thumb gusset (continue thrum pattern in the thumb gusset)
At beginning of next round purl 1 st, knit 5 sts, purl 1 st, knit to end of round
Work 3 more rows in this pattern
Increase row: p1, m1, knit to next purl st, m1, p1, knit to end of round
Knit 3 rows even
Repeat last 4 rows until 11 sts between purls (ending with the increase row, don't knit the 3 rows even)
Work 5 rows even

At beginning of next round slip first 13 sts to holder.
Using backward loop cast on, CO 11 sts to right needle, join with rest of round and knit to end (44 sts)
Continue knitting in pattern until palm reaches the base of pinky finger


Fingers (don't thrum these!)
Right hand
Rearrange sts so that there are 22 on each needle
1st finger: k6, co2, k5, m1- work 10 rounds even, bo
2nd finger: pu2, k6, co2, k6- work 10 rounds even, bo
3rd finger: pu2, k6, co2, k6- work 10 rounds even, bo
4th finger: pu3, k9- work 8 rounds even, bo

Left hand
Rearrange sts: knit 11, place next 22 sts on one needle, last 22 sts on another needle
1st finger: m1, k6, co2, k5- work 10 rounds even, bo
2nd finger: k6, pu2, k6, co2- work 10 rounds even, bo
3rd finger: k6, pu2, k6, co2- work 10 rounds even, bo
4th finger: k5, pu3, k4- work 8 rounds even, bo

Thumb (continue thrum pattern for thumb)
Move 13 sts from holder to needle, pick up 15 sts from around the thumb hole
K2tog, k9, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso (20 sts)
Work even for 2-2.5”
K2tog until 5 sts remaining- thread yarn through and tie off


Mitten top (continue thrum pattern for mitten top)
Pick up and knit 22 sts on back of hand (between last 2 thrum rows)
Using backward loop, co26 more sts (48 sts)
Work 2x2 rib for 6 rows
Work in thrum pattern until tip of fingers (3.5-4”)

Decrease: *k1, k2tog* across every round until 6 sts left- thread yarn through and tie off

27 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thank you for publishing this pattern! These convertible mittens are amazing and everything I ever wanted as far as hand warmers go.

A quick question though, what does the m1 stand for in the increase thumb gusset section?

Emaly said...

I'm so glad you like the pattern!

m1 stands for "make 1". It is a common way to increase, especially with thumb gussets. Basically, you pick up the "bar" between two stitches with the left needle, and knit into the back of the picked up stitch (it should be twisted). Sounds complicated but it isn't. Look it up on YouTube for the best explanation.

Anonymous said...

Hello, this is my first time working with thrums and knitting mittens (or I guess convertible mittens in this case).

As I'm working on this pattern I'm a little confused. For the thrumming, are we supposed to knit 4 rows and then on the fifth row k3, thrum1 until the end of round, knit 4 more rows, and on the tenth row k1, thrum 1 until the end of the round? What about the *k3,thrum 1*, k2*? How does that fit in with the rest of the thrumming?

Also, for the thumb gusset on the increase row did you mean p1, m1, knit to 1 before purl st, m1, K1,p1? I tried to do it the way it was written but realized that the number of stitches didn't increases the two purl stitches. Are we supposed to work the next 13 rows in that same pattern?

I'm sorry for the essay like comment, it's just all very confusing to me.

Emaly said...

Yes, you knit 4 rows, then add thrums on the 5th row (*k3, thrum1*), knit 4 more rows, add thrums on the 10th row (k1, thrum1, *k3, thrum1*, k2). Those 10 rows are repeated over and over. The alternating thrum row is so that every other row of thrums is spaced differently than the first thrum row, it is just an appearance thing. It makes the thrums look like this: (*=thrum, - = knit stitch)

---*---*---*---*
-*---*---*---*--

Does that make sense?

The increase row for the thumb gusset is correct. I'm not sure what you mean by
"the number of stitches didn't increases the two purl stitches".
The rows of the thumb gusset are worked:
increase row (you have 7 sts), knit 3 rows even, increase row (9), knit 3 rows even, increase row (11), knit 3 rows even, increase row (13), knit 5 rows even.

I hope this helps. There is a lot going on in this pattern, and I'm new to designing, so don't feel bad for asking!

Katherine Kutnick said...

Do you think it would work as well with a circular needle? Thank you!

Emaly said...

You might be able to do the body of the mitten with circulars, if you do magic loop or have a tiny circular needle. Personally I like double points better than tiny circulars, and have never tried magic loop, but it should be possible!

Anonymous said...

When do you start the thumb gusset? The directions are a little confusing as to how many rows to do, or what length to achieve before the thumb gusset.

Maybe adjusting the layout of the pattern would help? You could put special directions at the top ahead of where the actual pattern begins, so that the insertion of these instructions doesn't interrupt the pattern--how to thrum, thrum pattern. Just an idea.

Emaly said...

I'm sorry you find the pattern confusing. The pattern actually does start above the directions for the thrums:

Cast on 40 sts
Join in the round
Work 2x2 rib for 2.75”

Knit 4 rows
Thrum row (*k3, thrum1*)

Then you start the thumb gusset.

The directions for thrumming are inserted at the point in the pattern where you do the first thrum, that's where I thought they would be the most helpful.

I hope that eliminates your confusion. Please let me know if you have any other questions!

Emaly

Anonymous said...

Thank you, that does help.

I am trying to make adjustments to this pattern for a long man's hand, and a very small woman's hand.

Emaly said...

Good luck with your modifications. I have pretty small hands and these mittens fit me well (just a little too long), but I haven't made mittens for men so I won't be much help there. One thing to keep in mind is that because of the thrums the mittens are knit a bit bigger than normal mittens.

Emaly

Anonymous said...

I'm a little confused near the end of the thumb gusset. You said to:

Repeat last 4 rows until 11 sts between purls
Work 5 rows even

Does this mean right that after the last increase row, you knit 3 rows even [to complete the 4 row cycle] and then do 5 more rows even? OR do you knit 5 rows even right after the increase row?
So essentially, immediately after the last increase row, do you knit 5 or 8 more rows even?

I hope my question makes sense. Thanks!

Emaly said...

Good question! You only knit 5 rows even, not 8. I will edit the pattern so that makes more sense. Thanks for bringing it up, and good luck with your mittens! Emaly

Anonymous said...

I too had trouble with the thrums. But after watching the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsYjCFuqP28 and reading the written instructions again it all made sense to me. So hopefully this helps the earlier poster as well.

Also, thank you for this wonderful pattern and being so helpful and responsive to questions and comments!

Emaly said...

Thanks for sharing that great video! I'm sure it will be very helpful!

Emaly

Margo said...

These are beautiful mittens. Exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks for sharing the pattern and answering questions. I appreciate your talents :)

Mimi said...

Hello. I'm confused by the thimb gusset part, what do you mean by knit 3 rows even, do I just knot the 3 rows or follow the pattern from the previous needles. And what does "knit to 1 before purl st" mean? It's my first time knitting mittens and you're pattern and design looks really good.Thank you for the pattern!

Emaly said...

"Knit 3 rows even" means to knit 3 rows without increasing. You'll want to make sure that you continue the thrummed pattern as needed though.

"Knit to 1 before purl st" means that you will knit all the stitches that you knit from the previous round, but stop at the last knit before you worked a purl stitch in the previous round. So if in round 4 you knit 5 stitches and then purled, round 5 would be knit 4 stitches, m1, p1, knit to end of round.

Does that make sense?

Mimi said...

Thank you and it makes sense, but what is a row and what is a round? Is a row when you knit across all 4 dpns, and is a round just 1 needle out of the 4 dpns?

Emaly said...

When you are doing circular knitting (on DPNs or a circular needle), a row=a round. I use the terms interchangeably. When you knit in the round (in a circle), you will want to make sure that you mark the beginning of the row/round with a stitch marker so you don't lose your place. A row/round is one time around your work, starting and ending at the marker.

Mimi said...

Thank you!!

Mimi said...

So for the increase round:
P1, M1, K4, M1,P1, k to the end? So there's 6 sts between the purls, and we have to repeat the last 4 rows until there's 11sts., so does that mean for the last increasing round, I would do P1, M1, K10, P1, and not increase by 2 for this round? Sorry if I'm asking too many questions.

Emaly said...

Okay, I messed up! The increase row should be *p1, m1, knit to purl stitch, m1, p1, knit to end* So you start with 5 stitches between the purl stitches, and end with 11. The last increase round is *p1, m1, k9, m1, p1*. Sorry for the confusion!

Mimi said...

Okay,thank you!!

Mimi said...

How do I work the fingers? Do I use all 44sts from the needles because it adds up to 44, but then where are the stotches coming from for the mitten top?

Emaly said...

You do use all 44 stitches for the fingers. When you are done with those, you pick up 22 stitches on the back of the hand and then cast on another 26 stitches to make the flap top of the mitten.

Mimi said...

Is there a certaib way I'm supposed to pick up the stitches off the 2 needles for the fingers? Like which stitches do I use for the first finger?

Emaly said...

If you rearrange the stitches so that there are 22 on each needle, you would knit 6 stitches from the back needle, cast on 2 stitches, and then knit 5 stitches off the end of the front needle.

When you go to do the second finger, you pick up the 2 stitches that you cast on for the first finger, knit 6 from the back needle, cast on 2, knit 6 stitches from the front needle. The third is the same.

The fourth finger you pick up 3 that you cast on, and then knit the 9 remaining stitches off both needles.

This is for the right hand...when you go to do the left hand your back/front needles will switch (you knit off the front needle first and then the back).